Summer in the City

THERE IS A LONG-HELD ASSUMPTION THAT LONDON IN SUMMER IS SOMETHING TO ESCAPE. THE OFFICES EMPTY, THE CALENDARS FILL WITH WEEKENDS AWAY, AND THE CITY IS LEFT TO THE TOURISTS. BUT FOR THOSE WHO ACTUALLY LIVE IN WEST AND SOUTH WEST LONDON, THE REALITY IS RATHER DIFFERENT.

August in West and South West London, for those who know it, one of the quieter pleasures of living here. The streets settle. The parks come into their own. Restaurants that are impossible to book in October suddenly have tables. There is a looseness to the city that does not exist at any other time, and the people who stay tend to enjoy it more than they expected to.

The season has its own calendar, and in this part of London it tends to begin properly in June. Royal Ascot draws a certain crowd from these postcodes north along the A332, morning dress and the right hat giving the week a ceremony that suits the area well. Henley follows shortly after, a long weekend on the water that many households here treat as something close to a fixture. Both have a way of making the summer feel properly underway before July has even arrived.

Tennis runs through the heart of the London summer in a way that few other sports manage. The Queen’s Club Championships in Barons Court arrive in mid-June, and for those who live nearby there is something particularly satisfying about them. Smaller than Wimbledon, more intimate, and with a devoted membership that gives the fortnight a character all of its own. The grass-court season beginning here feels like a private announcement that summer has started. Wimbledon follows two weeks later, and whatever one thinks about the queues and the strawberries and the inevitable rain delay, the All England Club in the final week of June remains one of the great sporting occasions in the world. Centre Court on a clear afternoon, with the best players in the game on the grass, is difficult to better. For those lucky enough to hold debentures or Members’ tickets, the fortnight becomes something to structure the whole early summer around. For everyone else, the ballot and the queue each have their own particular ritual, and both are worth the effort.

 

For opera, Holland Park provides something that very few cities in the world can match. An outdoor stage set against the ruins of a Jacobean mansion, surrounded by one of London’s most beautiful parks, with the kind of programming that takes it seriously as a venue rather than merely a setting. The Proms, beginning in July and running through to September, offer something at a different register entirely. The Royal Albert Hall on a warm evening, the queues for the arena forming early, the sense of a city taking its culture seriously, it is one of the things London does better than anywhere.

When it comes to eating and drinking outside, the city rewards those who know where to look. The River Café terrace in Hammersmith is, on a warm evening, as good as London gets, the cooking has always been the point but the setting, right on the water with the light changing over the Thames, makes a long dinner there feel genuinely unhurried. At the other end of Holland Park, the Belvedere has one of the most romantic terrace settings in the city, the kind of place where a long Sunday lunch can quietly become the whole afternoon. Colbert on Sloane Square offers something different again, the closest thing London has to a proper Parisian brasserie terrace, excellent for watching the square from a table outside with no particular urgency to leave.

Petersham Nurseries in Richmond is worth the short drive from Barnes. Greenhouse dining is surrounded by extraordinary planting, a menu that changes with what is growing, and an atmosphere that manages to feel both refined and completely relaxed. It is the kind of place that people who live nearby take years to discover and then wonder how they managed without.

For those with membership, the Hurlingham Club in Fulham occupies a category of its own. Croquet lawns running down to the river, a summer that feels borrowed from a quieter era, and the particular pleasure of a city that has largely forgotten the place exists. It is, by some distance, one of the finest settings in London on a warm afternoon.

None of this requires going anywhere.

There is, of course, a practical observation worth making for those considering a sale. The summer months carry a reputation for quietness that is not entirely deserved. Serious buyers do not pause their search for a holiday. Well-prepared properties with good outdoor space show beautifully in June, July and August, and competition from other sellers is often lower than at any point in the spring. Some of the most straightforward sales we handle each year happen quietly, in the summer, with motivated buyers who have simply been waiting for the right home to appear.

The city in summer rewards those who stay. The people who leave are often returning to something they already have.



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